Tools Required...
Philips Head Precision Screw Driver. (The end needs to be narrow enough to fit into the grip screw holes. (Note: You may need a second Philips screw driver if the one above is not suitable for the PCB screws.
Cloth (to protect and rest your steering wheel on during disassembly/assembly. Bird pattern is optional).
2.5mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key)
3mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key)
4mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key), only required If you have APM paddle shifters installed.
Tweezers (sharp pointed)
Long Nosed Pliers
Small container to keep all your removed
screws, washer etc safe.
We supply you with the following: Hex key for the new grips - 2mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key) and a plastic thin edged tool (Spudger)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Main Rear Cover (part 1)
Place the wheel on its front and remove the top two (M3mm x 18mm long countersunk) screws. A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required (store the screws in your small container).
Place the wheel on its back for the next part.
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Main Front Fastenings (part 2)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Main Front Fastenings (part 2)
Remove the 8 screws from the front of the wheel.
Qty 4: 3mm dia. x 15mm long countersunk
screws for plastic). A 2mm A/F Hex Key is
required. (store the screws in your small
container).
Qty 2: M4 x 16mm long countersunk screws. A 2.5 mm A/F Hex Key is required. (store the screws in your small container).
The rear bottom cover will now be removable.
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the MPM or APM Connectors (part 3)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the MPM or APM Connectors (part 3)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Main Front Fastenings (part 2)
Unplug the two connectors situated at the bottom of the PCB.
Be very careful when unplugging these
connectors. Gently rock them whilst lifting.
Hold the female part of the connector so it's not being pulled up from the PCB (it's possible to pull this off from the soldering points of the PCB if you are aggressive in unplugging the connectors. Just take your time and everything will be fine).
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Grip Retaining Screw (part 4)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the MPM or APM Connectors (part 3)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Grip Retaining Screw (part 4)
Remove the grip retaining screw (2mm
dia. x 10mm long Phillips Pan Head Screw for plastic). One on each set of grips. A suitable Phillips screwdriver is required. (store the screws in your small container).
The photo shows the MPM version . If you have upgraded to the APM version, you can still access the retaining screw through the paddle gaps. You may prefer to remove the paddles for even better access.
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rear of the Wheel (part 5)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the MPM or APM Connectors (part 3)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Grip Retaining Screw (part 4)
Gently lift up the rear cover. Be careful of the four metal spacers that will likely fall from the assembly. Make sure you do this over a table, so you can see what they look like and where they normally sit. For photo purposes we have placed the spacers back on their origin (store the 4 metal spacers in your small container).
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the remaining internal connectors (part 6)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the remaining internal connectors (part 6)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the remaining internal connectors (part 6)
Disconnect the ribbon. You will need to remove the silicone that surrounds it, if this is the first time it has been disconnected. Gently "rock" the connector as you pull up to disconnect it. Try not to put any excessive strain on the PCB.
Unplug the shifter paddle connectors andrumble motor connectors from the PCB.
The rear cover can now be removed completely.
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the PCB (part 7)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the remaining internal connectors (part 6)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the remaining internal connectors (part 6)
Remove the 11 (2mm x 5mm long Flanged Head Phillips) screws with a suitable Phillips screwdriver (store in your small container).
The rumble motor black/red wires also need removing from the PCB retaining T-slots.
You can now carefully lift off the PCB.
Be careful with the 11 white silicone caps on the PCB. These may fall off when removing the PCB. Replace the caps on the PCB or store them for now in the small container.
**TIP** When re-attaching the PCB we recommend re-positioning the 11 white silicone caps using a tiny dab of vaseline, if you have some lying around, and are having difficulties with the caps remaining in place.
Wheel Disassembly: Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Buttons (part 8)
Wheel Disassembly: Unplugging the remaining internal connectors (part 6)
Wheel Disassembly: Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Buttons (part 8)
Remove the 11 buttons. (store in your smallcontainer)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Button Surrounds (part 9)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 11)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Shift Lights Lens (part 10)
Very carefully start to remove each one of the
button surrounds. These consist of a thicker
post (for accepting the PCB screw) and two
thinner delicate pronged legs. These can break
if not carefully handled.
If you break any of the button surrounds we
supply you with a repair kit which includes two
spacers for a repair solution. The repair
solution is detailed at the end of the installation, just in case you need it (store button surrounds in your small container).
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Shift Lights Lens (part 10)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 11)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Shift Lights Lens (part 10)
Remove the lens by unscrewing the two (M3 x 5mm long Button Head Philips) Screws
You may need the to use the blue "Spudger" to ease the lens from the wheel
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 11)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 11)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 11)
If you are not interested in re-fitting the
rumble motors skip to part 14.
If you have a Direct Drive wheelbase, they
serve very little purpose these days and we recommend you not re-using them. But if you want to re-use the rumble motors, continuing reading....
Remove the 3 (2.5mm x 8mm long Pan Head Phillips) screws for plastic, on the rear half of the grip, using a suitable Phillips screwdriver. You can now remove both halves of the grip from the wheel plate.
Repeat for the other grip. (store the 6 screws in your small container)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 12)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 12)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 11)
Carefully remove the silicone holding the
wires to the grip half and then remove the
rumble motor.
Do not use anything sharp and metal as it may damage the wire. Use your finger nail or the blue "Spudger".
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 13)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 12)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 13)
Re-attached the grips to the wheel plate using the 6 (2.5mm x 8mm long Pan Head Phillips) screws for plastic.
Store your old wheel plate/grip assemble somewhere safe and grab your new wider
wheel plate.
Wheel Assembly: Reverse the Process... (part 14)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 12)
Wheel Disassembly: Removing the Rumble Motors (part 13)
Take your new wider wheel plate and reverse the process to rebuild. (the rear of the wheel plate is shown in the photo).
Start from part 10 and follow each step in reverse until you get to part 1.
There are only a few differences in the reverse process:
Rumble Motors: If you decide to re-fit the rumble motors on our pineapple grips, you don't need to attach the wire with silicone. We have designed the grip 3D prints so you can push the wires into the slots. Use your finger nail or "Spudger" to do this. Once again do not use anything sharp and metal to do so, as you may damage the wires.
IMPORTANT NOTE! Make sure you maximise the wire length from the grips so there are no issues with them reaching their plug-in connectors on the PCB. We have found that wire lengths can vary, so it may be possible you have to bypass using the retaining t-slots on the PCB and just run the wires direct.
IMPORTANT NOTE! We recommend you loosen off the grip screws when fitting the rear case of the wheel. This will facilitate assembly so that the top of the rear cover has flexibility to fit between the two sets of grips.
Fitting Your New 3D Printed Pineapple Grips (part 15)
Wheel Assembly Options: The Extended MPM/APM Shifter Paddles (part 16)
Wheel Assembly Options: The Extended MPM/APM Shifter Paddles (part 16)
· IMPORTANT! Fit each pair of metal pins into
the rear grip mounting holes AFTER the rear
grips have been assembled to your wheel and
just BEFORE attaching the front grip halves. To
install two of the metal pins to each rear grip,
just push into their mounting holes as far as
you can, but don't force them. 6mm or so of
the metal pins will protrude from its mount,
this is fine. The metal pins act as a guide for
assembling the top half of the grips and adds
strength to the grips once screwed together.
· Insert the 3 black screw bosses to each rear
grip in the three positions shown.
· Use ONLY the screws supplied.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS!
Tighten each screw until you see the two grip
halves come together and you feel an obvious
"stop" feeling resistance. If you overtighten
there is a risk of stripping the holes where the
self-tapping screws go into.
· IMPORTANT! When screwing the new grips
together make sure the rear grips are seated
into position properly. If they are not and you
try to screw the top half on it can damage or
pull out thread inserts.
Wheel Assembly Options: The Extended MPM/APM Shifter Paddles (part 16)
Wheel Assembly Options: The Extended MPM/APM Shifter Paddles (part 16)
Wheel Assembly Options: The Extended MPM/APM Shifter Paddles (part 16)
Depending on which option you ordered go to the relevant section below:
For the MPM and APM Extended Paddle
Shifters, simply swap out the paddles re-using the screws on your wheel (APM shown in the photo). A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required.
The Finished Wheel... (part 17)
Wheel Assembly Options: The Extended MPM/APM Shifter Paddles (part 16)
The Finished Wheel... (part 17)
Congratulations! You did it!
Repair Kit Solutions: Button Surround (part 17)
If you break one or both of the button
surround pronged legs (examples shown in
the photo) during disassembly/reassembly, we
have designed a repair solution.
In the repair kit you will find two spacers with
an adhesive strip on them.
Repair Kit Solutions: Button Surround (part 18)
Remove the adhesive strip from the button
spacer and fit it to the assembly as shown. Sit the thicker leg of the button surround between the cut-out.
Repair Kit Solutions: Button Surround (part 19)
Do not use the button spacer on any of the two outer button positions. The photo indicates this (two on the left, two on the right).
This is because the spacer interferes with the standoff leg of the rear top cover. Simply swap the surrounds around, so the unbroken ones are fitted in these outer positions.
Repair Kit Solutions: Top Rear Cover Standoffs (part 20)
Repair Kit Solutions: Bottom Rear Cover Standoffs (part 21)
These can be damage from screwing in at an
angle or from over tightening the screw.
The repair parts provided are 3D printed.
Cut the standoff back with something like
sharp wire cutters. Superglue our replacement making sure it doesn't sit higher than the rear
cover. Use the other standoff as a reference.
Repair Kit Solutions: Bottom Rear Cover Standoffs (part 21)
Repair Kit Solutions: Bottom Rear Cover Standoffs (part 21)
Repair Kit Solutions: Bottom Rear Cover Standoffs (part 21)
These can be damage from screwing in at an angle or from over tightening the screw.
The repair parts provided are 3D printed.
These are also handed (left hand and a right handed part). Handle with care as the side walls are fragile until glued in position.
Cut the standoff back with something like
sharp wire cutters. Superglue our replacement making sure it doesn't sit higher than the rear cover edge. Use the other standoff as a reference.
Time to admire your work...
Repair Kit Solutions: Bottom Rear Cover Standoffs (part 21)
Repair Kit Solutions: Bottom Rear Cover Standoffs (part 21)
Go make yourself a nice cup of tea, sit
back and admire your upgrading and
re-building skills :-)