FANATEC INSTRUCTIONS #1 - GUIDE TO REPLACING YOUR GRIPS

  · Philips Head Precision Screw Driver (or a

    jeweller's screwdriver. A set can normally be

    purchased from a £1/$1 store if you don't

    have one). The end needs to be narrow

    enough to fit into the grip screw holes.

 · Cloth (to protect and rest your steering wheel

   on).

 · 2.5 mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key).

 · 2.0 mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key).

 · Plastic thin edged tool (like a mobile phone

   opening pry).

 · Small container to keep all your removed

   screws, washer etc safe.

· Place the Wheel carefully face down onto your

  cloth.

· Remove the two M3 x 18 mm long

  Countersunk Head Screws from the top rear

  cover (using a 2 mm A/F Hex Key). 

 · Make sure the Hex Key fit is good as these

   screws can be very tight on the first time of

   loosening and covered in thread lock. A poor

   fitting Hex key can result in you rounding the

   hex hole on the top of the screw head.

· Flip the wheel carefully onto its back and

   remove the remaining two 3 mm x 15 mm

   long Socket Countersunk Head Self Tapping

   Screws using the same 2 mm A/F Hex Key)

· The top cover can now be removed from the

   steering wheel.

  ·Flip the Wheel carefully on its front again.

· Undo the two M3 x 8 mm long Socket Cap

  Head Screws + Washer + Spring Washer

  situated on the side of each paddle shifter

  (using the 2.5 mm A/F Hex Key). 

· Repeat for the other paddle shifter.

· You now have access to three screws situated

   on each rear grip half.

· Unscrew fully all the three 3 mm x 8 mm long

  Pozi Pan Head Screws from each grip (using

  the Philips Head precision screwdriver or

  jeweller's screw driver. Again, these can be

  factory over tightened so be cautious when

  unscrewing.

· Carefully lift off each front grip half.

 · IMPORTANT! Before attempting to remove

   each rear grip half (containing the haptic

   motor) make sure you have unscrewed the

   small M2 x 5mm long Pozi Pan Head Screw

   from the PCB.

· Gently lift the haptic motor up towards you

  from the main wheel plate, but do not bring it

  too far as the red/black wiring has a limited

  length. It is connected to the PCB via a small

  white connector on the underside of the PCB.

  Rest the connector onto the cloth for now (still

  connected to the PCB).

· Now push the rear grip half downwards and

  out away from the wheel plate (note as you

  are doing this, part of the grip is tucked in

  between the PCB and wheel plate. So It’s a

  careful "down and away" action). Once the

  grip is away from the wheel, rest it onto the 

  cloth. 

· Push the haptic motor back through the wheel

  plate hole it came from and re-unite it with the 

  rear grip half. Place it for now back into its

  holder in the grip housing.

· You now have two choices. Either:

a) Unplug the haptic motor from the PCB. This is attached with a small rectangular white connector on the edge underside of the PCB. Be very careful unplugging this. DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES to remove the connector, carefully free it loose by a side to side motion as you pull it. It is a little fiddly, but it will come out.  

b) Leave it connected but be careful not to pull on the wires.

· Next, you need to remove the haptic motor

  wires from each grip half. This is held in two

  places in small slots in the molding. Two

  types of material hold the wires in place,

  sometimes with soft glue (sort of yellow

  slightly transparent looking), sometimes with a

  harder black silicone-type material. The soft

  glue is easy to pick out, the harder black

  silicone material a little more difficult. Just be

  patient and pick away at it with your fingers or

  something like a small mobile phone opening

  pry. 

  DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES and NEVER

  USE A SHARP METAL OBJECT as you will likely

  damage the small red and black wires. Do not

  worry, with patience you will remove the

  retaining glue.

· Grips are now fully removed from the wheel.

· Reverse the "Removing Your Grips" process

  for re-fitting your new 3D Printed Pineapple 

  grips.· 

· We supply you with a set of six No.2 (2.2mm x

  13mm long) Self Tapping Posi Pan

  Head Screws. Please make sure these are used

  instead of the original screws as they have

  a slightly different type of thread. Using the

  originals, you risk stripping the holes.

· You are also supplied with four metal pins.

  (you will see these on your original Fanatec

  grips as part of the injection moulded part.)

  Go to the next part for an explanation of what

  to do with these.

· For re-attaching your haptic motor, poke each

  red/black wire into the two retaining slots

  (past the small "pip"). Use a finger nail or a

  mobile screen opening pry to do this.    

· DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES and NEVER

  USE A SHARP METAL OBJECT as you will likely

  damage the small red and black wires will

  retain the wire.

· When refitting each grip rear half, be careful

  not to trap the wires between the grip and the

  PCB. Just take your time. ·

· Remember also, NEVER OVER TIGHTEN THE

  SCREWS. Tighten them until the uncovered

  parts of the grips come together. 

· Reverse the "Removing Your Grips" process for

  re-fitting your freshly re-covered grips.

· We supply you with a new set of grip screws.

· Two glue dots are also supplied. For re-

  attaching your haptic motor, after placing the

  wires back into each slot, cut a glue dot in half

  and fill the slot with it. 

· When refitting each grip rear half, be careful

  not to trap the wires between the grip and the

  PCB. Just take your time.

· Remember also, never over tighten the screws.

  Its yours and my "death grip" that got us here

  in the first place. By all means "death grip"

  your handle material, that's good for business

  on the wear side but try not to do it on the

  screws  :-)

· IMPORTANT! Fit each pair of metal pins into

  the rear grip mounting holes AFTER the rear

  grips have been assembled to your wheel and

  just BEFORE attaching the front grip halves. To

  install two of the metal pins to each rear grip,

  just push into their mounting holes as far as

  you can, but don't force them. 6mm or so of

  the metal pins will protrude from its mount,

  this is fine. The metal pins act as a guide for

  assembling the top half of the grips and adds

  strength to the grips once screwed together.

· Insert the 3 black screw bosses to each rear

  grip in the three positions shown.

· Use ONLY the screws supplied.

  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS!

  Tighten each screw until you see the two grip

  halves come together and you feel an obvious

  "stop" feeling resistance. If you overtighten

  there is a risk of stripping the holes where the

  self-tapping screws go into.

· IMPORTANT! When screwing the new grips 

  together make sure the rear grips are seated

  into position properly. If they are not and you

  try to screw the top half on it can damage or

  pull out thread inserts.